Weather is a Fickle Thing

Living on a boat has taught us the value of paying attention to the weather. Some days we remember that lesson better than others. Or is it that we just need a little reinforcement once in awhile?

We subscribe to a weather service where a meterologist sends us an email once or twice a day with weather forcasts for our area for the next few days. It includes wind speed and direction as well as precipitation and overall storm activity.

Based on that we choose either a marina, if it’s going to really be bad, or a particular anchorage that will protect us from prevailing winds.

But predicting the weather has to be a little like predicting what your spouse will be doing at a particular time without talking to them. Most of the time you’ll get it right but once in awhile they make a left when you thought they’d turn right.

After leaving Spanish Wells we stopped at Booby Cay overnight. It was lovely and we were the only boat there. During the night, however, the wind kicked up and we awoke to the boat rocking like a hammock in a 20mph wind.

There was a storm coming and the prediction was for the chance of 50k+ winds so off to Palm Cay Marina in Nassau! Nice marina, good docks, friendly staff and the best grocery store yet. Tied the boat up nice and tight and waited. And waited. And waited.

Not only did we not get the heavy winds, we didn’t even get any rain to wash the salt off the boat! So Wednesday afternoon we bought water and cleaned the boat. Yes, in the Bahamas they usually charge for water at the marinas just like gas. We have a watermaker on board that works well but you really don’t want to use it in a marina because the water quality is so bad.

Oh well. It was better than when we were in Marsh Harbor and got banged up at the docks.

We’re now anchored off Rose Island which is a really pretty anchorage. Lots of boats and activity. Gary rigged up a diver flag that I can tow behind me when snorkeling so I don’t get run over. It’s been a nice time and we’ve really enjoyed this first try at boating life.

We’re off to Hurricane Hole Marina in Nassau to pick up friends and start the journey back to the states and the DC area.

Spanish Wells in the Rearview

As I write this we’re underway leaving Spanish Wells on Eluthera. Spanish Wells is a beautiful little spot and if you’ve never been there should put it on your list. The locals are super friendly, plenty of shops a few good restaurants and of course crystal clear water and pink sand beaches.

We anchored outside the harbor and dinked into town. As is becoming our MO, we rented a golf cart the first day and rode all over the island picking out places to see and things to do. We could get most everywhere with the dinghy so life was good.

The beaches here are just so pretty. I was able to jump in the water and swim every day so I’m happy!

Crystal clear water and pink sand beaches-Spanish Wells

At lunch one day this little fellow swam up almost on shore. Seems he and a friend had their own personal little harbor that they hang around in. I think he was looking for a handout. Either that or a plump tourist.

 

Small shark at lunch off Spanish Wells
Siesta time Spanish Wells
Lagoon in front of restaurant Spanish Wells

We’re headed to Booby Island about 27 miles away for an overnight. We have a couple different anchorages picked out closer to Nassau and when the wind decides what it really wants to do we’ll pick one of them and hole up for a few days.

Oh and I lied about the dolphins. We saw a pod on the way from Abaco to Eluthera. Apparently they stick more to the deep water here as opposed to the US where they are everywhere. Who knew?

Bahamas is for Turtles

We saw dolphins almost every day on the coast of the US as well as on the ICW. Since we crossed over to the Bahamas we haven’t seen one. What we have seen regularly are turtles.

We have been anchored off Lynyard Cay for the last couple days just relaxing and puttering (puttering would be cleaning and doing minor repairs). About noon happened to look out and saw two good sized turtles feeding in the weeds. Gary was quick with the camera and managed to get a couple really good shots.

The weather has calmed down although the temperatures are still cool. Tomorrow we’ll cross over to Eleuthera and the central Bahamas for the rest of our trip. Hopefully the water will be warm enough to get back to swimming and snorkeling. The next big stop after that is Naussau where we’ll be joined by a couple friends for the trip back: Berrie Islands to Bimini and on to Florida.

Mother Nature Isn’t Funny Anymore

Yes, our friends and family north are having a nasty winter but I’m here to tell you your nor’easters are killing us here in the Bahamas.

After spending a windy weekend on Treasure Cay it calmed down here and we spent a relatively nice week with my brother travelling from Guana Cay to the south side of Marsh Harbor. Only a couple days of wind and even that wasn’t too bad. But it did keep us away from a couple really pretty anchorages as they weren’t protected from the not-normal wind direction.

Giving my brother the tour into Marsh Harbor

Check out the video clip below for waves blowing in from offshore.

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Then this morning we woke to stormy weather and the winds have been building from the north all day. We’re hoping that when the front passes thru later this evening the wind goes with it as we’d like to leave tomorow morning to head south to Eleuthera but need calmer weather as we’re traversing a long run in open water.

Right now we’re in the marina at Marsh Harbor and I’m sitting here listening to the wind blowing thru the masts of the sailboats around us. It sounds like the Furies and they’re not happy.

The following video clip is of the storm while we were in harbor (thank goodness).

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Update: we made it through the storm but it was a rough night. Had to get up several times to tighten ropes and at one point move the boat off one of the pilings as the rub rail was sitting on it and the boat kept trying to pitch sideways. Quite the thrill!

Communication is Everything

We’ve gotten into a nice rhythm on the boat. Whether we’re plotting a course, lowering or raising the anchor or tying up at a dock we each know what the other is doing and don’t require much talking.

So we decided last week that we need to swap roles and feel comfortable with what the other is doing. Unfortunately we have to do this at the same time putting both of us in unfamiliar situations. The first morning saw me at the helm on the flybridge and Gary on the bow ready to bring up the anchor. Now I’ve raised and lowered that anchor probably 50+ times and have a system, just as Gary does at the helm. So not only are we trying to figure out what we’re doing but keeping an eye on each other because you just KNOW someone is going to do something wrong, or forget something. Imagine our surprise when things got a little testy and tempers got a little frayed.

After we calmed down we taked through the process on each end and the next time it went a little better. We still tend to second guess each other and probably will until we get comfortable with the reversed roles. But that’s okay. We’ll just keep working it until we’re both proficient.

Can’t wait until I have to dock the boat. Gary’s head may just explode.

Treasure Cay

The wifi is out on the boat so the next few updates won’t have pictures for awhile as this is being done from the restaurant on Treasure Cay. Parts are coming Monday so hopefully it will be back up and running early next week.

We spent a few days on a mooring ball in Black Harbor at Green Turtle Cay. The nearby town, New Plymouth, offered quaint restaurants, grocery stores and a chance to stretch our legs. Rented a golf cart the first day to go to the other end of the cay and check out White Harbor, the Green Turtle Yacht Club and have lunch.

Gary settling in at Green Turtle Cay

North Bahamas from West End down was somewhat isolated with lots of uninhabited cays and local settlements until Green Turtle Cay which has the feel of an expat community. Obviously a fair amount of money. That upscale civilization has continued to Treasure Cay and Guana Cay.

We’re finding that we enjoy the smaller cays and anchoring out as opposed to being at a marina or on a mooring ball in a harbor. The solitude is amazing as are the sunsets and stars. There’s always a breeze and with our dinghy we can always run in to any town for a meal or shopping, socialize with the locals and then retreat to the boat.

Dinner in the harbor at Green Turtle Cay

The big storm that is hitting the East Coast this weekend is going to give us some pretty hefty winds. We’re anchored outside the harbor here at Treasure Cay where we’re somewhat protected. We thought to stay at the marina here but everyone seems to have had the same idea and there is no room. So we’ll stay with the boat Saturday and Sunday to make sure the anchor holds. It needs a good cleaning inside anyway so the time will be well spent. Then on to Guana Cay Monday to pick up my brother and spend the week motoring around and checking out tiki bars.