Reflections on the Live Aboard Life

Now that we’ve been on board for almost 18 months I thought it time to look back on how it’s going; what we expected versus reality.

First we love the boat and haven’t seen another comparable boat that we’d rather have. Everything that was an issue when we bought Laa-Dee-Dah has been fixed and we’ve managed to add equipment that makes our lives easier and safer. Things like a new AC chiller, an air compressor for our dive tanks, a forward looking sonar to see what’s in front of us under the water, a forward looking infrared radar for those pesky night crossings and a single side band radio for communication further down in the Caribbean. We also doubled our water making capacity from 30 to 60 gallons per hour.

I had visions of being able to swim every day. That hasn’t happened so much. If we’re anchored out somewhere and there isn’t too much current it’s fine but you definitely don’t want to swim in a marina. I now have a kayak and that is fun but again the wind and current can be a factor as to whether it goes in the water or not.

Things still break on the boat from time to time but not at the rate it was happening. Careful maintenance has helped. It is a challenge to get parts sometimes and Gary is really good at repairing rather than replacing when possible as an interim. We also have a short list of excellent people we can call for advice at any time. At the moment we’re nursing the starboard engine blower with an additional fan and careful watch of the undersized circuit breaker while underway. Popular opinion is that we may have a fan bearing issue, but we won’t have access to a replacement until we reach Puerto Rico.

Provisioning is easier. We’ve gotten into a rhythm and there are more and larger markets in central and south Bahamas than north Bahamas. As you go south the focus is more agricultural rather than fishing. Our next big stops are Turks & Caicos, Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico which all have very good grocery stores.

Our Amazon Prime account has gone dormant. They don’t necessarily ship to The Bahamas and customs is a nightmare so we rely on friends that visit to bring things that we’ve ordered and had shipped to them. We are also stockpiling things in Maryland for a pickup in February when Gary visits as well as shipping items to the marina in Puerto Rico for when we arrive in late February.

We’re staying in marinas more than anticipated due to weather and a break in the routine of being “off-the-grid” wanting to find restaurants and people. I don’t know if this will continue, we’ll see.  I do know that after 4-5 days of being anchored out and eating all meals on board a restaurant is very appealing. Some anchorages aren’t near towns with restaurants and markets so we have to plan accordingly.

Customs and Immigration has been a challenge but that was expected. Every country has slightly different rules. Gary has learned to lie convincingly about not having pets on board and Isabella doesn’t take it personally. Otherwise we would have to take her to a vet every time we left a country to gets forms filled out for the next country. Expensive and at 20 years old not something we want to put Isabella thru. Suffice it to say, she has all her shots, is micro-chipped and has all background paperwork necessary if we are ever boarded by customs or immigration.

We’ve learned to pay much more attention to wind and waves when transiting. Not just direction but wave height as well as seconds between waves. Gary has done a most excellent job at this. We’ve had a few trying days being thrown around but nothing that was scary or dangerous, just uncomfortable.

One of our biggest challenges has been communications. Our Direct TV satellite antenna decided to fail towards the south of The Bahamas and we decided to just do without as the coverage area ended with The Bahamas anyway. We can always stream Apple TV but that requires a good cell connection or Wi-Fi, something that is transient in The Bahamas. Gary has switched over to Google Fi for his phone service with good success. The only hitch is that after 15 MB of data the download is significantly slower but otherwise decent for text and email and unlimited. We will switch mine over from AT&T in the next month which will give us another 15 MB of data so that should help. We are watching a LOT less TV and instead playing games in the evening as well as reading.

We seem to run into minor challenges constantly along the way. Things like not having detailed mapping on the Garmin at the flybridge station as we’re coming into Turks and Caicos. Once we got here we updated the maps and everything is fine. The maps at the main helm were up to date so we used that station. Likewise I am downloading additional maps to my iPad while sitting in the marina here at T&C. This is the first stop in over a month where we can get good wifi and we are maximizing it! We actually saw the evening news with Lester Holt last night for the first time in weeks.

The bottom line is that if you want to retire and just sit back with your feet up don’t get a boat. Especially don’t think about living and traveling on a boat. Every day sees us discussing what the next stops will be, checking weather, deciding to anchor out or pick up a marina. What are the document requirements of the next country (after The Bahamas they come up fast)? Where is the next available provisioning stop? If we’re anchored out do the batteries need to be charged? If we’re underway do we need to turn on the water maker and fill the tank? Add to that the near constant cleaning both inside and outside and there really isn’t much down time. Once in awhile either or both of us will declare a “veg” day and do nothing more taxing than napping and reading all day long. It’s a luxury we don’t often get.

Do we have regrets? Other than Gary wishing we had a full time engineer on board, no. (He’s insisted that a fast car at home would be nice too). It’s a good boat and an interesting lifestyle. We’re adapting and we’re definitely not bored.

There is ALWAYS someone with bigger toys!

 

 

 

Goodby Bahamas-Hello Turks and Caicos

January 30-

We had to lay over a day at Atwood Bay on Crooked Cay where we were lucky enough to watch a local fisherman harvest two large spiney lobsters. Since we were on the back of our boat watching he came to our boat first to offer them for sale. For $20 we got two 2 lb lobsters. A deal! So surf and turf was the menu that night. We then spent two nights again at Abrahms Bay, Mayaguana waiting for the seas to calm but this morning we said goodbye to The Bahamas and had a beautiful, calm day motoring down to Providenciales, Turks &Caicos. We’re at Turtle Cove Marina for two nights to clear customs and immigration and get provisions and then we’ll cruise around and hopefully get some diving in.

T&C only lets you stay 7 days on a cruisers permit unless we want to spend $300 to stay longer. We’re meeting friends in the Dominician Republic so 7 days sounds about right.

Getting into this marina was a new and different challenge as it is inside a reef system. We had to ride the waves in thru a notch on the reef behind a pilot boat. The pictures don’t do it justice.

Waves to the left of us….
Waves to the right of us…
Stuck in the middle with Gary!
Pilot boat showing us the way thru the coral heads

January 31st

Just got back from the best supermarket I’ve seen since leaving the states. We will be eating well for the next week or two!

Great Iguana Cay, Bahamas

Sadly we left Staniel Cay on the 15th (sad because it’s my favorite place so far), and moved down the island chain a bit to Cave Cay for an overnight anchorage. Next day we arrived at The Marina at Emerald Bay just south of Georgetown on Great Iguana Cay. We tucked in to the marina because south of here all you will find is the “out islands” before crossing to Turks and Caicos. There was a storm forecast with high winds and we decided we wanted to be somewhere protected and here we are. And here we stay as now the seas are rather more challenging than we would like. We’re looking for a weather window that will allow us to get to T&C which is about a four day adventure, anchoring each night. Maybe later in the week or even next week.

When we arrived at the marina we couldn’t figure out why there were almost no boats here. In a marina that can handle 133 boats there were perhaps 6. Our info had correctly stated that although this was at one time a top marina it had fallen quite far. Although the marina boasted electric and pump out facilities at each slip we found that most of the marina didn’t have electric and the pump out doesn’t work. But hey, we have a generator and pumpout in the Bahamas is more of an advertisement than a reality most anywhere. The staff more than makes up for the lack of upkeep tho with their helpful and friendly attitudes.

The Marina at Emerald Bay getting full

After a day or two here we noticed the marina started filling up. At this point it is mostly full with boats waiting for the seas to calm just like we are. It’s become a community and everyone is socializing and having drinks and making the best of being here.

There’s a top notch golf course next door. In fact, there was a PGA tournament happening the day we arrived. Gary decided to check out the action on the 17th hole on the last day and our granddaughter caught him on tv!

PGA tournament at Emerald Bay
PGA tournament at Emerald Bay

There’s also a Sandals Resort next door and for a price we can spend the day at the pool and eat to our hearts content. We’re not that bored yet. There’s also Grand Isle Resort a 10 minute walk away that has beaches and a nice restaurant that is available. The menu is big enough and varied enough that we haven’t run out of things to eat even tho we’re there at least every other day for a meal.

We’re 30 minutes from Georgetown so rented a car one day and made a run to the grocery store, hardware store and boat store. Seems like we make these same stops at any large town.

The lunar eclipse last night was spectacular! With a storm earlier in the evening we were worried that visibility would be nonexistent but the sky cleared and it was impressive.

If you’re not a golfer skip this paragraph- There doesn’t seem to be much demand for the golf course so I’m not sure how they keep it so pristine. Maybe it’s  because the tournament just occurred. The front nine is between palm trees and mangrove clusters. The back nine for the most part is along the coast with all the challenges that brings. I managed to only lose 3 balls the first day. They don’t need to worry about marking any out of bounds areas. If you go too far off the course there is no retrieving the ball even if you do happen to see it. We managed to play twice. Once before the big winds and once as they were calming down. In between we took 4 clubs each and a handful of golf balls and played the 17th hole-downwind- over and over. I call it groundhog golf becuse of the movie. We got really long drives but the walk back up the hole against the wind was challenging.

So let that golf ball go. Just let it go.
Beautiful golf course at Emerald Bay

We have noticed a lot of sharks on this passage. Nothing to worry about but can be a bit intimidating. The gentleman next to us was cleaning the bottom of his boat the other day and looked over to see a “buddy” watching him. The buddy was bigger than he was but just wanted to see what was going on. And that seems to be the extent of interest. They just want to know what is happening or are waiting for food to be thrown overboard.

Some people have guard dogs. We have a guard shark.

Paradise in The Bahamas

January 10th.

We have truly found paradise in The Bahamas. Staniel Cay is all that they say it is. A little bit of tourist, a little bit of really nice restaurants, a little bit of grocery stores and a whole lot of pristine, clear water surrounded by mostly deserted islands.

Staniel Cay anchorage

We arrived on the 8th and only intended to stay for a couple days. There is a windstorm coming in from the east this weekend and we need to be somewhere protected from the 20+knot winds. We fell in love with Staniel Cay and decided there was no reason not to stay here until early next week. We are in the protected cove just north of the Staniel Cay Yacht Club and south of Fowl Cay. The yacht club can hold about 20 boats and the cove about 50. Location is everything.

East of us is “cruisers beach” complete with fire pit, bean bag chairs, benches and shovels. We took the dingy there yesterday afternoon with a bottle of wine to watch the sunset.

Cruisers Beach Staniel Cay

We have these cool beach chairs and table and it was our first opportunity to try them out. While there we had a visitor. Did I mention the pigs? No?

Check out my “friend” behind me.

One of the main tourist attractions here is the swimming pigs. I kid you not. They have their own beach and boats come in all day long with people anxious to swim with and feed the pigs. Big pigs, little pigs, even in-between pigs. They are friendly and VERY well fed.

Another attraction is a fabulous restaurant on Fowl Cay. Four course Prix Fixe menu with cocktails and wine and unlimited wifi. What more can you ask for?

Fowl Cay

Happy New Year 2019

This is being posted a little late. We’re finding that wifi service can be hit or miss here in The Bahamas.

Our friends, Donna and Paul, made it to Nassau NYE to ring in the new year with us. A New Year tradition in the Bahamas is Junkaroo which is a street festival that lasts from 2am -10/11am New Year’s day. We went to sleep after the midnight fireworks but got up in time to catch the last hour or two of the parade. Costumes and music were amazing. It was a great visit and I even got my Christmas cookie fix, thank you Donna!

Junkaroo in Nassau
Junkaroo in Nassau
Junkaroo in Nassau

We motored over to Rose Island, about an hour away and decided to spend the night. Not one of our best moves. It was a little choppy during the day but we managed to get in the water and test a couple toys without any issue. Unfortunately it got fairly rough after dark and we were stuck. Next morning saw us pulling anchor first thing and we beat feet back to Nassau and the marina looking for brunch. Thank goodness for friends with a sense of humor and a high tolerance for motion.

January 4th,  we left Nassau and moved 40 miles south to Highborne Cay, a private island, where we are currently anchored. It’s beautiful with clear, turquoise water. Our neighbors are a couple large charter boats and we’re watching all the toys that come with that.

The new kayak works very well but I’ve got to ditch the lifejacket!

We also have two reef sharks, 3-5 ft in length, who have taken up residence under our boat. I threw some old bread overboard this morning and I’m not sure it actually hit the water before being gobbled up. So I followed it up with a couple old roasted beets and we had a soccer game! They’re actually very pretty and cool but I don’t think I’ll be swimming off the back of the boat.

Update: Next day we went into the marina at Highborne for lunch. It’s a beautiful resort, very high end. We also found out why there are so many sharks. They have discovered that the fishing boats clean and filet all their fish at the end of the dock. Then they come out to the anchored boats to see what is being offered.

Duh!
Feeding frenzy!

 

 

 

 

 

Took the dinghy north a couple miles to Allen’s Cay to see the iguanas. They actually run towards you. Since we had no food and had been warned they can bite we kept our distance.

One of the protected iguanas on Highborne Cay
Highborne Cay
Rock formations left by visitors at Highborne Cay

And now we count seven sharks under our boat….😱